A recent fashion show in the snowy town of Gulmarg, located in Indian-administered Kashmir, has ignited a significant controversy. The event, organized by the renowned fashion label Shivan & Narresh, took place last Friday at a ski resort to showcase their skiwear line. This marked the first time a major non-local brand held such an event in Kashmir, a region known for its beauty but also its history of conflict.
The controversy erupted when Elle India shared a video on social media featuring models in underwear or bikinis, sparking outrage among the local population, politicians, and religious figures in the predominantly Muslim region. Another video from Lifestyle Asia, showing a post-show party with alcohol consumption, further fueled the discontent.
Many locals were offended by the timing of the event during Ramadan, a sacred month of fasting and prayer for Muslims, accusing the designers of disrespecting their faith and cultural values. Some religious leaders labeled the show as "obscene," likening it to "soft porn."
The backlash was not solely rooted in religious conservatism but also in concerns over cultural encroachment by outsiders. Kashmir has long experienced a separatist insurgency against Indian governance since the late 1980s.
In response to the uproar, Elle India and Lifestyle Asia removed their videos, and the designers, Shivan Bhatiya and Narresh Kukreja, apologized, stating their intent was purely creative and not meant to offend.
Kashmir, often referred to as the land of saints and Sufism, has deep spiritual traditions that influence its culture, including modest dress codes like the pheran, a long, loose garment worn by both men and women.
The controversy extended beyond social media, sparking a heated debate in the Jammu and Kashmir assembly. The opposition criticized the government for allowing the event despite cultural sensitivities, while Chief Minister Omar Abdullah distanced his administration from the show, noting it was a private affair and calling for an investigation.
"If any laws were broken, appropriate action will be taken," he stated in the assembly. The police have yet to disclose details about the event's organizers or any legal violations.
The choice of Gulmarg, a popular skiing destination, for the skiwear show was not unexpected. Fashion journalist Shefalee Vasudev noted that designers often seek stunning locations for their shows, drawing parallels to international designers known for their theatrical presentations.
However, she emphasized the need to consider the political and cultural context of a location, especially in a region like Kashmir, which has endured decades of conflict.
Kashmir remains a contentious area, claimed in full by both India and Pakistan but controlled in parts by each. Since the partition of India in 1947, the two nuclear-armed neighbors have fought two wars over the territory. The separatist insurgency that began in the late 1980s has resulted in thousands of deaths, and while it has waned, distrust of the Indian government persists among many locals.
This distrust deepened after the Indian government, led by the Bharatiya Janata Party, revoked Kashmir's autonomy in 2019. Some locals expressed that the fashion show controversy was unsurprising, given the political climate.
"Everything in Kashmir is political," said Mir, a university professor who requested anonymity. He noted that large corporate events are often viewed with skepticism, as locals suspect government attempts to erode their culture.
Researcher Arshid Ahmad voiced stronger concerns, accusing the government of trying to weaken Kashmiri resistance.
This isn't the first time non-local events have stirred controversy in Kashmir. In 2013, a concert by conductor Zubin Mehta faced protests from separatists and human rights activists, who saw it as an attempt to portray normalcy in a troubled region.
The influx of tourists from other Indian states has also raised cultural concerns. The government has linked increased tourism to the removal of Article 370, which granted Kashmir autonomy.
Nousheen Fatima, 34, mentioned that government messaging has led outsiders to perceive Kashmir as safer and more integrated with India, but she claimed many tourists fail to respect local customs.
Last year, a video of tourists drinking alcohol on Dal Lake in Srinagar sparked outrage, with leaders condemning the behavior as "un-Islamic and unethical." In February, locals in Srinagar posted signs urging tourists to respect local traditions and avoid alcohol and drugs, though these were later removed by police.
In an editorial for The Voice of Fashion, Ms. Vasudev suggested examining the outrage critically. She questioned whether the show would have been acceptable in another Indian city during Ramadan or if it featured only modest attire.
She also highlighted Kashmir's reputation for producing exquisite wool and pashmina, asking if a fashion show in Gulmarg showcasing innovative wool garments could be seen as a way to rejuvenate interest in the region's unique craftsmanship.